Trip
Report
Autumn
2005
North-western
Yunnan Province
China
By John and Jemi Holmes
Yunnan
Nuthatch Sitta yunnanensis
CONTENT
OF THE REPORT
GENERAL
INFORMATION
A NOTE OF
THANKS
ITINERARY
REFERENCES
SITES
SOME NAMES
IN CHINESE
SPECIES LIST
GENERAL INFORMATION
We passed through Dali and Lijiang in April 2005 and had our
appetites for the area whetted. Good scenery and colourful ethnic minorities
make a good backdrop to the birding. October and November might not be the most
productive time to visit these areas, but we felt that we saw some good birds
overall. The first half of October
was still unseasonably wet.
To try to get photographs of the birds we stayed at most places
longer than the average birder would.
Little English is spoken away from the main tourist areas, such as
Kunming, Dali and Lijiang. Jemi
speaks Putonghua which made things a lot easier everywhere we went.
It
is worth paying a little extra for ÒExpressÓ busses on longer routes, mainly
because the vehicle (and brakes !) will be newer. Avoid, if possible, sitting
at the front of the vehicle – often the most dangerous seat if there is
accident.
The exchange rate in Autumn 2005 was 10 Ren Min Bi (RMB) ~ 1
Euro, about 8 RMB ~ 1 US dollar.
A
growing number of domestic tourists means that a range of accommodation is
available in most places we visited. In most places you can expect to pay in
the range of 50-150 RMB per night for a clean, comfortable room. Value for money was less good at places
where there were only one or two places to stay. A list of room rates is posted at the reception desk of most
hotels. Up to 50% discount can be obtained just by politely asking. It is good practice to be sure how much
you are paying for your food as you order it, so ask if they donÕt have an
English menu. We would pay 4-8 RMB
for vegetable dishes, and 8-15 RMB for meat. Bottles of (frequently room temperature) beer cost 4-6 RMB. If you are sensitive to MSG remind the
waitress you donÕt want it; - ÒBu fang wei jing !Ó Get used to using chopsticks, or take your own fork.
If
you feel you are lacking some piece of outdoor clothing or equipment, bear in
mind that a lot of it is made in China.
Kunming, Dali, Lijiang and Zhongdian all have shops selling last yearsÕ
gear at a fraction of European prices.
Some sites we visited have received less attention from birders
than others. Some of the site
accounts may be read as ÒWe birded it, so you wonÕt have to!Ó. A systematic list is at the end of this
report. It would be longer if I
worked harder at identifying all the phylosscs !
Prof. HAN Lian-xian met us in Kunming and shared his enthusiasm
for various sites in Yunnan, - many thanks to him. As things worked out on this trip we didnÕt get to all
of the sites discussed.
ITINERARY
Sept 25 Crossed
HK/Shenzhen boundary at Lowu, flew Shenzhen to Kunming.
Sept 26 Xishan
(Western Hills), Kunming
Sept 27 Coach
from Kunming to Xiaguan. Local bus
from Xiaguan to Dali
Sept 28-Oct 8 ÒHigherland InnÓ Cangshan (Azure
Mountains), Dali
Oct 9-12 Shibaoshan
(Stone Treasure Mt.), Jianchuan, 120km north of Dali
Oct 13 Overnight
in Lijiang
Oct 14-18 99
Dragon Pools, Laojunshan (3hrs from southwest of Lijiang)
Oct 19-21 Liming
Scenic Area, Yulong Naxi Autonomous Prefecture
Oct 22 Overnight
at Tacheng, Yulong Naxi Autonomous Prefecture
Oct 23 Overnight
at Weixi, Weixi Susu Autonomous Prefecture
Oct 24 Overnight
at Yanmen (Mekong River Gorge), Deqin
Oct 25 Overnight
at Cizhong (Historic Catholic Church), Deqin
Oct 26-27 Xidang
Wenquan (Xidang Hot Springs), Meilixueshan , Deqin
Oct 28-31 Yubeng
Village, Meilixueshan, Deqin
Nov 1 Overnight
at Feilaisi (Meilixueshan
viewpoint), Deqin
Nov 2 Six-hour
bus ride to Zhongdian (Shangri-la)
Nov 3 Afternoon
at Napahai (Napa Sea), near Zhongdian (Shangri-la)
Nov 4 Day
trip to Shuduhu (Shudu Lake), near Zhongdian (Shangri-la)
Nov 5 Express
bus to Lijiang (4 1/2 hours)
Nov 6 Morning:
Heilongtan Gongyuan (Black Dragon Pool Park), Lijiang.
Afternoon:
Lashihai (Lashi Sea)
Nov 7 Flew
Lijiang to Shenzhen, back to Hong Kong via Lowu
Mackinnon, J. and Phillipps,K, (2000) A field guide to the
Birds of China
UK: Oxford University Press
Bradley
Mayhew et al. (2002) South-west China - Lonely Planet Guide Australia: Lonely
Planet Publications Pty Ltd.
Allright,
J (2001) Mapping the Tibetan World USA: Kotan Publishing Inc.
Mansfield, S (2001) Yunnan Province - The Bradt Guide UK: Bradt Travel Guides
Hornbuckle, J (2002) Yunnan Southwest China - March 2002 (Internet trip report)
Artuso,
C (2005) Yunnan and Sichuan,
July-Aug 2005 (Internet Trip Report)
SITES
We stayed at the backpackersÕ favourite – the Camellia
Hotel [www.kmcamelliahotel.com Tel (0871) 3163000]. A Taxi to the Western Hills was RMB 60 (got the bus back to
the city centre). We birded the
hilltop up and right from the chairlift upper terminal, then walked all the way
down. The trees are much bigger now than when I first visited in 1990, but the
western edge of the ridgeline is covered by a rash of small guesthouses. Still,
it should be possible to stay out there if you wanted to.
Cangshan
(Azure Mountains)
- Dali Old Town
Above the town of Dali, the ÒCloudy Tourist WalkÓ (referred to
in at least one guidebook as the ÒJade Belt WalkÓ) contours the Cangshan Range
for fifteen kilometres at an altitude of 2,500 metres. It runs roughly
north/south. The southernmost 12
1/2 km was re-paved in the spring of 2005. The new kilometre marker stones go from 1 in the south to 12
in the north. The hillsides around
are a mixture of secondary pine, broadleaf and bamboo. Nutcrackers are here,
but no Nuthatches were seen.
Closest access from Dali Old Town is by chairlift (RMB 60
return) to Zhonghe Temple. The 10
1/2 km point on the Cloudy Tourist Walk (CTW) is about 100 metres up a flight
of steps to the south of the temple.
A place to stay called the ÒHigherland InnÓ [www.higherland.com Tel:
(0872) 2661599] is 150 m further on, above the CTW. We stayed for nine nights (60 RMB) in the end, partly
because we were very comfortable even when the weather was wet and misty, and
partly to avoid the big October Holiday crowds. The re-paved part of the CTW is broad and flattish and there
are sturdy-looking handrails above the steepest drops. In early October it was a good site for
Chinese Babax – often near Zhonghe Temple. Lady AmherstÕs Pheasants were
seen daily crossing the path, but on all but two occasions they were females or
juveniles. Other birds notable (to
us) were Chestnut-headed Tesia (CTW 7.3 km) and Brown Parrotbill (CTW
11.5km). Over a ten-day period we
saw eighty-or-so varieties of good woodland birds, although day counts were
only about thirty species. If you
have the time, it is worth staying at the Higherland Inn to bird after the day-trippers
have gone in the evening, and/or to get a Òhead startÓ on them in the
morning. Besides, pancakes and
brilliant views make the Higherland Inn a memorable stop.
In
Dali, the MCA Guesthouse [www.mcahotel.com Tel (0872) 2664177] is spacious and
clean (Rooms RMB 80 – 160). Apart from the Cloudy Tourist Walk, another
birding option is to hire a car to go up the gravel track towards the top of
the mountains. The track starts at a quarry to the south of the ÒThree PagodasÓ
Tourist Complex. Various guesthouses and local travel agents offer day trips to
the mountain top, usually with hikers in mind. It takes about 2 hours to get to
the end of the road at 3,200 metres from Dali town centre.
Shibaoshan (Stone Treasure Mountain)
- Jianchuan County
A site praised in Jon HornbuckleÕs account of his March 2002
visit to Yunnan. Access via the
old Dali to Lijiang road, Route 214.
Turnoff – to the west - at the town of Diannan. The road forks
after 12 km or so. Left to the Tea
Horse Caravan Trail Town of Shaxi (quite interesting). Right fork to Shi Bao Shan. (We paid RMB 350 to hire a
minivan from Dali to Shibaoshan (Driver Mr YANG 139-88534759, a refreshingly cautious
driving manner, but he doesnÕt speak English.) Zhongdian and Lanping-bound
busses pass through Diannan. A
minivan from the Route 214 turnoff for the last 14km should be RMB 40.
From the road fork, at the 2km mark is the entrance gate (RMB
60) with the Shibaoshan Bingguan just behind [Tel (0872) 4787068] (RMB
70). The bingguan (Guesthouse) has
a restaurant. Accommodation is also available at the Temple just uphill from
the Guesthouse. You may also stay
at Baoxiang Temple, but the steps are very intimidating if youÕre carrying a
lot of baggage.
At the 5 km mark the road broadens into a coach parking area for
Baoxiang Temple, which is up a long flight of steps to the right, opposite some
noodle stalls. On two mornings we
found small parties of Chestnut-vented Nuthatches near the entrance gate to the
temple and on the steps themselves.
The valley from about 3 1/2 km to 6 km has most of the broadleaf
woodland, and here we saw several parties of Black-faced Warblers. Much of the rest of Shibaoshan is
covered with fairly scrubby-looking pines. The upper carpark is at the 11km point, that is, nine km
from the entrance. This was a
really good area for Yunnan Nuthatch, with them calling loudly, even at midday.
Seven-seat Minivans ply the road and can be hired by the trip or
by the hour. We paid RMB 200 to move on to Lijiang. (Driver: Mr DONG 139-88586290,
no English spoken).
Ninety-nine Dragon Pools –
Laojunshan (Lao Jun Mountains)
- boundary of Yulong Naxi Autonomous Prefecture and Jianchuan County
(Not to be confused with the Laojunshan in southern Sichuan,
among others. Lao Jun is a bearded, balding deity who seems to have quite a few
Chinese mountains named after him.)
Access
from Route 214 a few km north of Jianchuan (between km markers 2211 and
2212). A total of 52km along
mainly unpaved roads to the west; comprising 30km to a bridge, a right turn and
7km up to a logging control point barrier, 5km up a track in a gully next to a
stream, and then an entrance gate by some out-of-season holiday chalets. The
final 10km is along a spectacular track to a large if somewhat basic complex, Longquan
Mt Lodge, set in mature spruce forest at an altitude of 3,700 metres. We paid RMB 120 per night for a room,
which was cold but rather luxurious, given the location. There were toilets down the
corridor, and the food was taken in another block. The electricity generator
usually ran from sunset until midnight.
There was no landline phone, mobile phone coverage could be obtained by
walking 5 Km down the main road.
The staff were very young, and preoccupied with gathering firewood for
the winter. When we announced we
were going to take the paved walk around the famous pools we were sold two RMB
80 admission tickets. Otherwise, we were left alone, which suited us. We saw
Himalayan Weasel along the path. As well as the evergreen forest, the area is locally
famous for the rhododendrons. It is most popular with visitors in May.
In mid-October the birding was very slow. Highlights included
Plain-backed Thrush (seen from the restaurant!) Long-tailed Thrush, Golden Bush
Robin and Chestnut-headed Tesia. Grey-crested and Rufous-vented Tits
accompanied Buff-barred Warblers in small mixed flocks. This area would be worth a spring
visit, if only for the flowers.
The chalets down near the entrance gate might be a good base, with the
hillsides nearby being partly cleared and cultivated.
We
paid RMB450 (at the Tourist Office in LijiangÕs main square) for a 4WD to get
from Lijiang to Laojunshan. However, while there a few daytrippers arrived from
Jianchuan in 7-seat minivans, for which the going rate is about RMB 300 (Mr
Yang Tel 13988517069). In Lijiang we had prearranged to be taken to Liming from
Laojunshan for RMB 450 as well.
There is no public transport yet to 99 Dragon Pools.
- Yulong Naxi Autonomous Prefecture
About 100 Km to the north west of Lijiang, this is a scenic area
of red sandstone outcrops, many with fanciful names. It is being increasingly
promoted by local tourism officials (Admission 80 RMB). We stayed in the Ò1,000 Tortoise HotelÓ
(RMB 100) near the entrance gate. One day we were driven 4 km to Liguang at the end of the paved road
and walked back, on another we walked (good path, but 700m ascent) to a beauty
spot called Ò1,000 tortoise rocksÓ.
Nice scenery, but birds were shy and few. This is a place where a lot of the locals are obviously very
poor, even by the standards of the area.
- Lancangjiang (Mekong River) Valley, Deqin County
We got the local bus from Weixi (144km RMB 37 took 6 hours)
along the banks of the Mekong (Lancangjiang) Gorge to a town called Yanmen,
which had one decent place to stay, but otherwise little to commend it. A few km south of Yanmen there is a
suspension bridge at the 79km marker.
From here you can just see the top of the 1905 Catholic Church, about 2
km up a stony track and set in a mainly Tibetan village. We paid RMB 15 each
for beds in a place enterprisingly signed ÒTourist Reception CentreÓ Tel (0887)
8536096. They had a deck where you could drink the local red wine, and enjoy
views of the Cizhong Church and snow-covered mountains. Nice place, but no special birds noted.
Feilaisi (Fei lai Temple)
- Deqin County
10 km beyond Deqin on the road to Tibet, you can now stay here
and hope for a clear view of the mountains. We stayed at the brand-new Nan Ka
Hotel (RMB 120) Tel (0887) 8414999.
Xidang
Wenquan (Hot Springs)
- Meilixueshan (Meili Snow Mountain), Deqin County
From Feilaisi, hiring a minvan to Xidang or to Mingyong should
cost RMB 100-130 [Driver from Xidang 13988740569]. An admission fee RMB 80 was paid before crossing the Mekong
on a concrete bridge. The road right leads 8km to accommodation
near the base of Mingyong Glacier. (Hornbuckle 2002). We went left (Artuso 2005), about 10km to Xidang
(where there appear to be a couple of nice guesthouses). The Hot Springs are a further 8km up a
gravel road, at the edge of the woodland. We paid RMB 20 each for a
tatty-but-clean bed in a wooden block at the edge of the woods. There was hot
water in nearby cabins due to outlets from the hot springs, but the facilities
were very run down. Two women ran a kitchen in a building across the carpark.
This is the starting point for pony treks to Yubeng, so there were plenty of
people coming and going.
At 2,800m, a birdy area, with ElliotÕs, Black-faced and Giant
Laughingthrushes around in what appeared to be healthy numbers. Chestnut-vented Nuthatches foraged on
the ground like steely-blue sparrows.
Another site is the valley below Mingyong Glacier (Hornbuckle
2002) which we didnÕt get time to visit. The local bus from Deqin to Mingyong
leaves at 15:30, so you may be able to connect from the express bus from
Zhongdian (ÒShangri-laÓ) to Deqin which leaves Zhongdian at 08:30, and should arrive in Deqin around
14:30.
- Meilixueshan (Meili Snow Mountain), Deqin County
A table of charges for pony hire and distances gives the
impression that Xidang Hot Springs (2,800m) to Yubeng Village (3,200m) is a
distance of 18km. However it is probably only half that. Whatever the distance, there is a climb
up and over a pass at 3,700m, so allow five to six hours for the trek.
We stayed two nights at YubengsÕ oldest hostelry, the ÒMystic
Waterfall Guest HouseÓ RMB 40 a room, Tel 13988760556. Stunning views in front of some of the
ÒPrincely peaksÓ,- all over 6,000m and ice-covered, but the food and
hospitality were indifferent. We
spent two nights at a place near the path down from Xidang with a sign outside
saying ÒWalker HomeÓ RMB 50 a room.
The plumbing, food (Sichuanese cook), and grade of welcome were all
radically better. A flock of 200+
Snow Pigeons was a pleasing sight, we also saw Grandalas circling at a distance
over some cliffs. Other highlights were Crimson-browed Finch, Dark-rumped and
White-browed Rosefinches and big groups of Giant Laughingthrushes.
Xianggelila or Zhongdian (Shangri-la)
- Xianggelila (or Zhongdian) County
A wide range of accommodation, but worth the effort to stay in
the old town, where there are colourful bars and restaurants. We stayed at the
ÒShangri-la Lord ManorÓ RMB 160 a
room. For better or worse, old
Zhongdian is being touristified into another Lijiang.
Napahai
(Na Pa Sea)
- Xianggelila (or Zhongdian) County
A Taxi hired for the afternoon (RMB 70) took us to the edge of
the marsh (Admission RMB30). Already over one hundred Black-necked Cranes were
present, many in family parties. White-tailed Eagles were also present. The
only place we missed the ÔscopeÕ.
Shuduhu
(Shu du Lake)
- Xianggelila (or Zhongdian) County
An
altitude of 3,700 metres meant we got pretty tired picking our way round the
marshy fringes of this lake (Hornbuckle 2002). After completing two-thirds of our circuit we were stopped
by two officious (and plain-clothed)
ÒSecurity GuardsÓ at an encampment set up for filming historic dramas. We declined their invitation to go back
the way we had come and exchanged pleasantries in our respective languages
until the police arrived. We were taken back to the jetty near the car park in
a motorised rubber dinghy. This was the only unpleasant encounter of our
trip. We had arrived later than
ideal, about 0900hrs, but didnÕt find the area on the day particularly birdy.
Heilongtan
gongyuan (Black Dragon Pool Park)
- Lijiang, Yulong Naxi Autonomous Prefecture
A famous view of pagoda, ornamental bridge and Jade Dragon Snow
Mountain as a backdrop, admission RMB 60.
An irresistible photographic clichŽ. To bird the hillsides behind the park – and avoid the
admission fee - you can leave Lijiang Old TownÕs Main Square and follow a broad
pavement with the stream on your left. Before you get to the parkÕs southern
entrance you can cut up through the fields to the right. Yunnan Nuthatch is
seen regularly here (but not by us), and a lucky few get Giant Nuthatch.
Lashihai (La shi Sea)
- Lijiang, Yulong Naxi Autonomous
Prefecture
A
RMB 25 Taxi ride to the south-west of Lijiang. Most visitors go for the pony rides at the eastern edge of
the lake. You can hire a punt by
the hour. Apart from Ruddy Shelduck it was hard to identify a lot of the
distant duck without a Ôscope. We found both Common and Black-necked Cranes on
the grassland between the southern end of the lake and the ploughed fields
beyond.
SPECIES LIST
Species number according to
Mackinnon, J. and Phillipps,K, (2000) A field guide to the Birds of China
0050
Common Pheasant Phasianus
colchicus
One male at the roadside south of Deqin.
0052
Lady Amherst's Pheasant Chrysolophus amherstiae
Almost daily at CTW, Cangshan, Dali. One male and one female at
Shibaoshan, Jiangchuan.
0074
Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus
30+
at Napahai, Zhongdian
0079
Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea
800+
at Napahai, Zhongdian. 50+
at Shoudu Lake, Zhongdian.
200+ at Lashihai, Lijiang.
0081
Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna
Around
50 at Napahai, Zhongdian.
0089
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
One
at Napahai, Zhongdian. Two at Shoudu Lake, Zhongdian.
0101
Ferruginous Pochard Aythya
nyroca
12
at Shoudu Lake, Zhongdian.
0127
Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopos hyperythrus
A
pair between Xidang and Yubong, Meili Xueshan.
0128
Crimson-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos cathpharius
Single
at Upper Yubong, Meili Xueshan.
0129 Darjeeling Woodpecker Dendrocopos darjellensis
Single
at the pass between Yubong and Xidang, Meili Xueshan.
0143
Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus
canus
Single
near Km 11 carpark, Shibaoshan, Jianchuan.
0163
Hoopoe Upupa epops
Common
in cultivated areas.
0171
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
Two
on the aviary ponds, Kunming Zoo.
0214
Himalayan Swiftlet Collocalia
brevirostris
Two
seen on one day from CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0222
House Swift Apus affinis
15
at the Western Hills, Kunming.
0227
Mountain Scops Owl Otus spilocephalus
Single
heard, CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0240
Brown Wood Owl Strix leptogrammica
Singles
heard, CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0247
Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei
Singles heard in daytime at
Shibaoshan, Jiangchuan.
0265
Snow Pigeon Columba leuconota
200+
in two flocks near Upper Yubong, Meili Xueshan.
0274
Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis
Two
near Baoxiang Temple, Shibaoshan, Jiangchuan.
0288Wedge-tailed
Green Pigeon Treron sphenura
Single
female seen once coming in to roost, CTW, Cangshan, Dali
0302Common
Crane Grus grus
Six
at Lashihai, Lijiang.
0304Black-necked
Crane Grus nigricollis
200+
at Napahai, Zhongdian.
20+ at Lashihai, Lijiang.
0324
Common Coot Fulica atra
800+
at Lashihai, Lijiang.
0400
Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus
Nine
at Lashihai, Lijiang.
0455
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Single
at base of Cangshan chairlift, Dali.
0458
Oriental Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus
Migrating
(?) party of six Cangshan, Dali (on 6th Oct.)
0459
Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus
Widespread
over cultivated areas around Dali.
0460 Black Kite Milvus migrans
Four
over the Western hills, Kunming.
0465White-tailed
Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla
Four
at Napahai, single at Shoudu Lake (near Zhongdian).
0470Himalayan
Griffon Gyps himalayensis
Four seen near roadside at Benzilan (between Deqin and
Zhongdian) – a sign of ÒSky burialsÓ ?
0478Hen
Harrier Circus cyaneus
Single
female near Napahai, Zhongdian.
0482Crested
Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus
Single
near Higherland Inn, CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0485
Japanese Sparrowhawk Accipiter gularis
Single
noted from CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0487
Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus
Single
at 3,500m near Laojunshan.
0492
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo
Singles
from the CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0494
Upland Buzzard Buteo hemilasius
Single
over Shoudu Lake, Zhongdian.
0504
Mountain Hawk Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis
Single
seen from road to Shaxi, near Shibaoshan.
0508
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Common
near cultivated areas.
0516
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
Singles
noted over Upper Mekong Valley at Cizhong and Xidang, Meili Xueshan.
0518
Little Grebe Tachybapus ruficollis
Present on open water at all sites visited. Available barbequed
near Zhonghe Temple, Cangshan, Dali.
0520
Great-crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus
10
at Lashihai, Lijiang, the only ones noted.
0531
Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo
Dozens
at Lashihai, Lijiang, and Napahai, Zhongdian.
0539 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Just
a single noted at Lashihai, Lijiang.
0542
Great Egret Casmerodius albus
Two
at Napahai, Zhongdian.
0545
Chinese Pond Heron Ardeola bacchus
Three
near the Aviary Ponds, Kunming Zoo.
0547
Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Seven
at Kunming Zoo. Often heard after dark at Cangshan, Dali.
0568
Black Stork Ciconia nigra
Three
at Napahai, Zhongdian.
0616
Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach
30+
seen from the road between Dali and Jianchuan.
0621
Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius
Pair
seen at Xidang Hot Springs, Meili Xueshan.
0626
Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythrorhyncha
Three
near road to Shaxi, near Shibaoshan. Eight in Mekong Valley near Cizhong.
0630
Azure-winged Magpie Cyanopica cyana
Six
in the open at Kunming Zoo.
0640
Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes
Up
to five daily in the pines near the CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0641
Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax
30+ at Napahai, Zhongdian.
20+ at Shoudu Lake, Zhongdian.
Seen also from the 99 Dragon Pools circuit at Laojunshan.
0644
Daurian Jackdaw Corvus dauurica
150+
(migrants ?) in the air over Napahai, Zhongdian.
0647
Carrion Crow Corvus corone
Two near 99 Dragon Pools, Laojunshan.
0648
Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos
15 in the Mekong Valley near Cizhong.
0654
Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis
Two
at the Western Hills, Kunming.
0655
Slender-billed Oriole Oriolus tenuirostris
Single
seen from CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0664
Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris
Noted
at Western Hills, Shibaoshan and Liming Scenic Area.
0666
Short-billed MinivetPericrocotus brevirostris
Six
noted from CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0667
Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus
10
near Baoxiang Temple, Shibaoshan, 12 along Mekong Valley to Cizhong.
0669
Yellow-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxantha
Up
to 10 seen along CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0670
White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis
Ones
and twos seen around Shibaoshan, Jianchuan and Liming Scenic Area.
0672
Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus
20+
seen along roadsides on the way to Shibaoshan.
0673
Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus
Usually
ones and twos (once, seven) seen from the CTW Cangshan, Dali.
0677
Hair crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus
Only
two from the CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0688
Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii
Three
at Liming Scenic Area, two
at Yubong, Meili Xueshan.
0691
White-throated Rock Thrush Monticola gularis
Single
male near Baoxiang Temple, Shibaoshan.
0692
Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush Monticola rufiventris
Two
from CTW, Cangshan, Dali. One at Laojunshan.
0693
Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius
Two
at CTW, Cangshan, Dali (about km 9).
0694
Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleus
Up to five sightings daily, gully at CTW 12.5kms. Single at Xidang Hot Springs, Meili
Xueshan.
0698
Plain-backed Thrush Zoothera mollissima
Single
seen from canteen window, Ò99 Dragon PoolsÓ, Laojunshan.
0699
Long-tailed Thrush Zoothera
dixoni
Two
on Ò99 Dragon PoolsÓ nature trail, Laojunshan.
0712
Eye-browed Thrush Turdus obscurus
Single
at Liming Scenic Area.
0736
Slaty-backed Flycatcher Ficedula hodgsonii
Single
male at CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0737
Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher Ficedula strophiata
Single
on CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0740
Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra
A
total of five sightings, CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0743 Slaty-blue Flycatcher Ficedula
tricolor
Three
sightings; two males and a female, CTW, Dali, Cangshan.
0746
Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina
Two
at the Western Hills, Kunming, a single at Shibaoshan.
0750
Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara
At
total of 11 sightings at CTW, Cangshan, Dali. Heard there and at Shibaoshan
daily.
0755
Pale Blue Flycatcher Cyornis unicolor
Single
at CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0759
Grey-headed Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis
13
sightings at the ÒCloudy Tourist WalkÓ, also at the Western Hills and
Shibaoshan.
0765 Siberian Rubythroat Luscinia
calliope
Two
daily behind the kitchen at Laojunshan Ò99 Dragon PoolsÓ.
0773
Orange-flanked Bush Robin Tarsiger cyanurus
Male
and females of the blue-browed race (species) at the accommodation at
Laojunshan (3,700m).
0774
Golden Bush Robin Tarsiger chrysaeus
At
least two individuals in the spruce forest at Laojunshan.
0775
White-browed Bush Robin Tarsiger indicus
Everyone else seems to have seen this at Cangshan, above Dali,
but not us. In autumn there are
quite a few rufous-tailed brown (female/immature) robin/flycatcher creatures,
but IÕd need a lot more practice to confidently identify them.
0778
Oriental Magpie Robin Copsychus saularis
At
Kunming Zoo and around villages between Dali and Shibaoshan.
0785
Hodgson's Redstart Phoenicurus hodgsoni
Three at Black Dragon Pool Park, Lijiang, singles near Cizhong
and Yubong, Meili Xueshan.
0787
Daurian Redstart Phoenicurus auroreus
A total of eight seen (various days) at CTW, Cangshan, Dali,
also present at Shibaoshan and Lijiang.
0789
Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis
Up to three daily at Xidang Hot Springs and Yubong (both Meili
Xueshan) and two at Shoudu Lake, Zhongdian.
0790
White-capped Water Redstart Chaimarrornis leucocephalus
Present at Cangshan (Dali), Meili Xueshan, Liming Scenic Area
and Lijiang on any suitable-looking stream.
0791
Plumbeous Water Redstart Chaimarrornis leucocephalus
See
0790, above.
0793
White-tailed Robin Myiomela leucurum
Up
to three in the scrubby woodland at km11, Shibaoshan, Jianchuan.
0795
Grandala Grandala coelicolor
Flock
of 50+ circling around the cliffs above Lower Yubong Village, Meili Xueshan.
0796
Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri
Single on stream at km12 CTW, Cangshan, Dali. Two at around 6km
point on road up to Shibaoshan.
0799
White-crowned Forktail Enicurus leschenaulti
Two at 10km point of CTW, Cangshan, Dali. Up to seven between
4km to 6km points on Shibaoshan road.
0804
Common Stonechat Saxicola torquata
Day
count of 10+ driving from Dali to Shibaoshan.
0807
Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferrea
Up
to three daily at Western hills, Kunming, and Cangshan, Dali.
0815
Red-billed Starling Sturnus sericeus
15
in Green Lake Park, Kunming.
0833
Chestnut-vented Nuthatch Sitta nagaensis
Up to ten daily at various sites in Meili Xueshan. Also in the vicinity of Baoxiang
Temple, Shibaoshan.
0837 Yunnan Nuthatch Sitta yunnanensis
Active
and vocal near the carpark at km11 Shibaoshan. Highest daily count eight.
0843
Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria
Two on the craggy – and crumbling -sides of the Mekong
Gorge between Cizhong and Deqin.
0844
Eurasian Treecreeper Certhia familiaris
Up to three daily at Ò99 Dragon PoolsÓ Laojunshan. Two each at
Upper Yubong (Meili Xueshan) and Black Dragon Pool, Lijiang.
0848
Winter Wren Certhia familiaris
Up
to six daily at the accommodation (3,700m) Ò99 Dragon PoolsÓ, Laojunshan.
0853 Willow Tit Parus montanus
10+
at Shibaoshan. Also along Mekong Gorge and Meili Xueshan.
0858
Rufous-vented Tit Parus rubidiventris
Common above 2,500metres, max count 25+ at Ò99 Dragon PoolsÓ
(3,700m). A few at Cloudy Tourist Walk, Cangshan, Dali.
0861
Grey-crested Tit Parus dichrous
Only recorded at Ò99 Dragon PoolsÓ and Meili Xueshan sites above
3,000m such as Xidang Hot Springs and Upper Yubong.
0862
Great Tit Parus major
In
twos and threes here and there.
0864
Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus
Common
in all the hills visited. Max
count eight at Liming Scenic Area.
0870
Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus
Only
recorded once, at the CTW, Cangshan, Dali. Perhaps overlooked elsewhere.
0873
Black-throated Tit Aegithalos concinnus
Western
Hills (Max count 10), Shibaoshan, and Black Dragon Pool Park, Lijiang.
0875
Black-browed Tit Aegithalos bonvaloti
15+
at CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
20+daily at Shibaoshan.
0881
Dusky Crag Martin Hirundo concolor
Eight
along the Mekong Gorge between Cizhong and Deqin.
0882
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Max
10 at Shibaoshan, Jianchuan.
0884
Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica
Two
at Cloudy Tourist walk, Cangshan (Oct 1st).
0889
Goldcrest Regulus regulus yunnanensis
Two to three daily at Ò99 Dragon PoolsÓ, Laojunshan. Similar
numbers at Yubong (Meili Xueshan).
0891
Crested Finchbill Spizixos canifrons
Up
to six at Liming Scenic Area.
0897
Brown-breasted Bulbul Pycnonotus xanthorrhous
20 + at the Western hills, Kunming. Present in smaller numbers at Liming Scenic Area, Black
Dragon Pool Park in Lijiang, and Shibaoshan.
0912
Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus
Only
a singleton noted at CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
0925
Japanese White-eye Zosterops japonicus
Up
to 30+ at Western Hills, and ÒCloudy Tourist WalkÓ, Cangshan.
0926
Chestnut-headed Tesia Tesia castaneocoronata
One
seen two days in a row, CTW km7.5, Cangshan, Dali.
0937
Grey-sided Bush Warbler Cettia brunnifrons
Singles
in the understorey at Ò99 Dragon PoolsÓ, Laojunshan.
0975
Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus
Two
at CTW, Cangshan, and two at Xidang Hot Springs, Meili Xueshan.
0978
Buff-throated Warbler Phylloscopus subaffinis
Liming
Scenic Area and Xidang Hot Springs, max 6 daily.
0981 Radde's Warbler Phylloscopus
schwarzi
Up to 7 daily at Xidang Hot Springs.
0982
Buff-barred Warbler Phylloscopus pulcher
Common
at Cangshan, Ò99 Dragon PoolsÓ and Xidang Hot Springs.
0983
Ashy-throated Warbler Phylloscopus maculipennis
Only
seen at CTW, Cangshan, Dali;- max daily count eight.
0984 Pallas's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus
proregulus
Present
at Cangshan, Dali.
0988
Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus
Noted
at the Western Hills, Kunming
0997
Blyth's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides
Cangshan
,Dali and Liming Scenic area – max count six daily.
1002
Golden Spectacled Warbler Seicercus burkii
In many mixed
flocks, daily max 11 at CTW, Cangshan.
Daily max 3 at Ò99 Dragon poolsÓ Laojunshan.
1006
Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps
Daily
max two at CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
1009
Black-faced Warbler Abroscopus schisticeps
Up
to 12 at Shibaoshan, near Baoxiang Temple.
1014 White-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax
albogularis
A
single flock of 30+ at Ò99 Dragons PoolÓ, Laojunshan.
1027
Moustached Laughingthrush Garrulax cineraceus
Near
Baoxiang Temple and at the end of the road at Shibaoshan , max four.
1031
Giant Laughingthrush Garrulax maximus
Up
to 15 at Xidang Hot Springs and Yubong , Meili Xueshan.
1037
White-browed Laughingthrush Garrulax sannio
Four
at Kunming Zoo, two at Black Dragon Pool Park in Lijiang.
1041
Elliot's Laughingthrush Garrulax elliotii
Up to three at Cloudy tourist Walk, Cangshan, Dali. 30+ near
Upper Yubong, Meili Xueshan.
1044
Black-faced Laughingthrush Garrulax affinis
Up
to six daily at Xidang hot Springs and Yubong (Meili Xueshan).
1046
Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush Garrulax erythrocephalus
Daily
max eight at CTW, Cangshan.
1056
Spot-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus erythrocnemis
Up
to six daily, CTW, Cangshan. Also at Xidang Hot Springs.
1059 Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus
ruficollis
Also at CTW, Cangshan. Not
as common as 1056.
1071
Bar-winged Wren-babbler Spelaeornis trglodytoides
Found
skulking along path edges CTW, Cangshan.
1076
Rufous-capped Babbler Stachyris ruficeps
Seen
or heard daily, CTW, Cangshan.
1083
Rufous-tailed Babbler Chrysomma poecilotis
Seen
twice , two individuals each time 10.5 km CTW, Cangshan.
1084
Chinese Babax Babax lanceolatus
Family
parties near Zhonghe Temple, CTW Cangshan. Seen daily.
1088
Red-billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea
Seven
at Western Hills, party of five at CTW, Cangshan.
1092
Green Shrike Babbler Pteruthius xanthochlorus
Three
individuals seen, CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
1102
Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera
Widespread and quite
common, Western Hills, Cangshan, Liming Scenic Area and near Black Dragon Pool
Park in Lijiang.
1103
Chestnut-tailed Minla Minla strigula
Up
to 30 daily –family parties – CTW, Cangshan.
1105
Golden-breasted Fulvetta Alcippe chrysotis
One
flock of 20 seen, CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
1109
White-browed Fulvetta Alcippe vinipectus
Up to 20 daily at CTW, Cangshan. Seen again at Xidang hot Springs and Yubong in Meili
Xueshan.
1111
Spectacled Fulvetta Alcippe ruficapilla
Daily
at CTW, Cangshan, but not as
common as 1109.
1116
Rusty-capped Fulvetta Alcippe dubia
Recorded
at Western Hills, CTW, Shibaoshan (max count six).
1118
Grey-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe morrisonia
Four
in Western hills, Kunming. (Overlooked/forgotten elsewhere ?)
1123
Black-headed Sibia Heterophasia melanoleuca
Almost
daily at CTW, Cangshan and at Shibaoshan up to a total of six.
1130
Stripe-throated Yuhinia Yuhina gularis
Only
seen once, party of four at km12 CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
1131
White-collared Yuhina Yuhina diademata
Up
to 35 at CTW, Cangshan daily, also present at Yubong.
1132
Rufous-vented Yuhinia Yuhina occipitalis
Flock
of 10 seen once at CTW, group of
20+ at Ò99 dragons PoolÓ at Laojunshan.
1140
Brown Parrotbill Paradoxornis unicolor
Seen
three times, up to 15 at CTW km12, Cangshan.
1181
Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum
Single at Shibaoshan.
1186
Gould's Sunbird Aethopyga gouldiae
Up
to three daily at CTW, Cangshan, Dali.
1197
Russet Sparrow Passer rutilans
Up
to 10 at km 11 at Shibaoshan, also up to six at Liming Scenic area.
1198
Tree Sparrow Passer montanus
12
at Kunming Zoo (What a sad placeÉ)
1207
White Wagtail Motacilla alba
Widespread
in suitable habitat.
1212
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
See
1207 above.
1218
Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni
Notable
at open, grazed areas of Meili Xueshan. Max count 10 at Xidang hot Springs.
1222
Rosy Pipit Anthus roseatus
Single
at CTW, Cangshan, 3rd Oct.
1226Alpine
Accentor Prunella collaris
Two
at the ÒMystic WaterfallÓ Yubong, MeiLiXueShan .
1229
Rufous-breasted Accentor Prunella strophiata
Reasonably common at higher altitudes, Laojunshan and Meili
Xueshan. Max count 30 at Upper Yubong.
1234
Maroon-backed Accentor Prunella immaculata
Daily
max 11, at Upper Yubong.
1248
Black-headed Greenfinch Carduelis ambigua
A
flock of 20+ at km11, Shibaoshan.
1254
Twite Carduelis flavirostris
Four
at Shoudu Lake, Zhongdian.
1264
Long-tailed Rosefinch Uragus sibiricus
Single
at Upper Yubong.
1266
Dark-breasted Rosefinch Carpodacus nipalensis
A
total of six, Yubong, Meili Xueshan
1267
Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus
Single
female, Xidang Hot Springs, Meili Xueshan.
1269
Pink-rumped Rosefinch Carpodacus eos
Six
at Upper Yubong Village.
1277
White-browed Rosefinch Carpodacus thura
Four
at Shoudu Lake, Zhongdian.
1284
Crimson-browed Finch Propyrrhula subhimachala
Single
female, Upper Yubong.
1290
Grey-headed Bullfinch Pyrrhula erythaca
Three,
pass between Xidang and Yubong.
1306
Godlewski's Bunting Emberiza godlewskii
10
at the carpark, km11 at Shibaoshan, eight at Xidang hot Springs.
1316
Yellow-throated Bunting Emberiza elegans
Seen
daily near Zhonghe Temple, CTW, Cangshan. Max count 20.