Crested Auklets, bobbing in the volcano-enclosed waters of Yankicha Island, part of the Kuril chain. When we visited on a sun-drenched evening in early June 2012 there were thousands of them in the air and on the sea surface. They had left their nest burrows and ventured out over the plankton-filled waters of the northwest pacific ocean, gathering food for their young, and, having returned, were communing with their fellows at the end of the day in the clear waters of the caldera. Numerically dominant, and with few predators, this was their world. For them, there seemed no concern about what lay over the horizon. For ourselves, we were delighted to have landed on “Planet Auklet”.